A complete, honest guide to walking the Laugavegur trail from Landmannalaugar to Thorsmork: daily stages, huts, river crossings, season and the highland buses to the trailheads.
The Laugavegur trail is Iceland's most famous long-distance walk: a roughly 55-kilometre route through the Fjallabak Nature Reserve linking the rhyolite hills and hot springs of Landmannalaugar with the glacier-fringed birch woods of Þórsmörk. Most people walk the Laugavegur trek from north to south over four days, sleeping in mountain huts or camping along the way. This guide covers the daily stages, huts versus tents, the river crossings, the difficulty, when to go, and how to reach each trailhead. One honest note first: Sterna Travel does not run a guided multi-day Laugavegur trek. What we do run are the scheduled highland buses that get you to the start and finish, and day tours that let you sample both ends of the trail.
The Laugavegur trail at a glance
Distance: about 55 km, Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk
Duration: four days and three nights is the classic itinerary; fit hikers manage two to three
Direction: usually north to south, for a net descent
Season: late June to early September, when huts and buses operate
Accommodation: four hut-and-campsite clusters run by Ferðafélag Íslands
The route, day by day
Day 1 — Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker (12 km)
The steepest climb of the trek weaves past the Brennisteinsalda volcano and steaming fumaroles to the snowfields around Hrafntinnusker, at roughly 1,050 m. Expect snow patches even in July.
Day 2 — Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn (12 km)
A high traverse with sweeping glacier views, then a steep descent to the green shores of Lake Álftavatn. This stage brings your first proper river crossing.
Day 3 — Álftavatn to Emstrur (15 km)
The longest day crosses the black sands of Mælifellssandur. You ford the Bláfjallakvísl before reaching the Emstrur (Botnar) huts near the Markarfljót canyon.
Day 4 — Emstrur to Þórsmörk (15 km)
The land softens into moss and birch as you drop into Þórsmörk. The Þröngá crossing near the end is the last and often the deepest. Many walkers carry on over the Fimmvörðuháls pass to Skógar from here.
Huts versus camping
Each stop has a Ferðafélag Íslands hut and a neighbouring campsite. Huts are dormitory-style, with mattresses, shared kitchens and wardens, and they book out months ahead for peak weeks — reserve early. Camping is cheaper and more flexible, but you carry the weight and the weather above the snowline can be brutal. Wild camping is not permitted; use the designated sites only.
River crossings
Unbridged crossings are part of the Laugavegur trail and catch out unprepared walkers every summer. Carry water shoes, unclip your hip belt, face upstream and cross the widest, shallowest braid rather than the narrowest. Glacial rivers run highest on warm afternoons, so cross early. If one looks too fast or deep, wait — levels drop quickly.
How hard is the Laugavegur trek?
This is a moderate-to-challenging hike, not a technical one. The ground is rough, the weather turns fast and you carry several days of food, but there is no scrambling. If you can walk 12–15 km a day over hills with a loaded pack, you can do it. The real challenge is cold, wind and rain at altitude, not the distance.
When to walk
The season is short — roughly late June to early September, when the huts are staffed and the highland buses run. July and August are warmest and busiest; early September brings autumn colour and thinner crowds, but a higher chance of snow and a firm cut-off as services close. Outside these months the route is unserviced and genuinely dangerous.
What to pack
Layers: base layers, a warm mid-layer, and a waterproof, windproof shell
Hat and gloves, even in midsummer
Sturdy waterproof boots plus light shoes for river crossings
A 40–60 litre pack, sleeping bag and trekking poles
More food than you think you need — there are no shops between trailheads
A power bank, paper map, and cash or card for the hut wardens
Getting to the trailheads with Sterna
You don't need a 4x4 to reach the Laugavegur trail — the highland buses do the hard part. The Landmannalaugar Bus carries hikers from Reykjavík to the northern trailhead, while the Þórsmörk Bus serves the southern end for the journey home. Our Highland Hikers Bus is built for exactly this trip, linking the trailheads on a flexible hiker's schedule so you can walk one way and ride back.
If four days on the trail is more than you want, you can still see the scenery in a day. The Landmannalaugar Explorer visits the rhyolite mountains and hot spring at the northern trailhead, and the Þórsmörk Valley Trek explores the glacial valley at the southern end — both showcase the best of the Laugavegur landscape without the overnight commitment.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the Laugavegur trail?
About 55 km from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk, usually walked over four days. Strong hikers finish in two to three, and some extend it over the Fimmvörðuháls pass to Skógar for a total of roughly 80 km.
Do I need a guide for the Laugavegur trek?
No. The trail is waymarked and busy in season, so fit, well-equipped, self-sufficient walkers regularly do it unguided — though fog navigation and river crossings demand respect. Sterna doesn't run a guided trek, but we do get you to and from the trailheads by bus.
Which direction should I walk?
North to south, Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk, is the usual choice. It gives a net descent and gets the steepest climb out of the way on day one.
Do I need to book the huts in advance?
Yes, well in advance. The Ferðafélag Íslands huts are small and fill months ahead for July and August. The campsites beside each hut are first-come, first-served, but you still carry full camping kit.
Can I walk the Laugavegur trail as a day trip?
Not the full traverse, but you can experience either end in a day. The Landmannalaugar Explorer and Þórsmörk Valley Trek day tours each visit a trailhead and include shorter marked walks before returning the same evening.
